Now, Now: Neighbors

A real mixed grill. (barbecuing)(includes excerpt from ‘Barbecue Bible’)(includes recipes)

House Beautiful June 1, 1998 | Ellis, Jane Everything from soup to salad, and even dessert, tastes better from the grill, maintains Steven Raichlen, author of the new Barbecue Bible. Here he lights up the fire and shows the way “You can always saute pineapple in a skillet, but when you dip it in butter, dust it with brown sugar, and grill it over fruitwood you get a far more complex flavor,” explains Steven Raichlen, author of the new Barbecue Bible (Workman). This quick, simple dessert was the refreshing finale to a summer feast cooked over an open fire. Everything was flipped on the grill from the ingredients for the gazpacho and salad Nicoise to the chicken wings, shrimp, and beef kebabs. website charcoal grill

An advocate of both charcoal and gas grilling, Raichlen says the choice is merely a question of the cook’s temperament. Gas is quick and convenient. Charcoal is for those who love the ritual of building a fire and don’t mind waiting thirty minutes until it’s ready.

In either case, wood is the secret flavor-enhancing ingredient. Put wood chips in a smoker box for gas-grilling, or soak them in water and scatter on top of charcoal. Wood can also, of course, be used on its own. Oak is a Raichlen favorite because of the rich but not overpowering smokiness it imparts. For hearty meats like steak he prefers the more pronounced flavor of mesquite. Fish, poultry, and vegetables, on the other hand, call for the delicate aroma of fruitwoods like apple and cherry. To give gas-grilled foods added taste, Raichlen relies on intensely flavored marinades and sauces.

Recipes adapted from Steven Raichlen’s Barbecue Bible (Workman, 1998) When gulfing, make sure the fire is hot enough for good charring. When you can hold your hand six inches over the coals for no more than three seconds, the fire is ready. And because precious juices can escape if you spear with a fork, always rum food with a spatula or a pair of tongs.

GRILLED GAZPACHO Preheat gas or charcoal grill to high. Soak eight to ten 6-inch bamboo skewers in water to cover for 1 hour.

32 2-inch pieces of white scallion 2 garlic cloves, peeled 1 medium red onion, peeled and quartered 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 3/4-inch-thick slices of country-style white or French bread 2 1/2 pounds vine-ripened tomatoes 1 red bell pepper 1 green bell pepper 1 cucumber, peeled, and cut into large pieces 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil, oregano, tarragon, and parsley 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar Cold water Salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 tablespoons chopped scallion greens Thread white scallion parts, garlic, and onion quarters on bamboo skewers. Lightly brush with olive oil. Grill until brown, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove vegetables from skewers. Set aside.

Grill bread until toasted, about 2 minutes per side. Set aside.

Grill tomatoes until skins are black and charred, about 2 minutes per side. Set aside to cool. Grill peppers until skins are black and charred, about 4 minutes per side. Set aside to cool. Scrape skin off tomatoes and peppers with a paring knife and discard. Core and seed peppers. Set aside.

Place scallions, garlic, onion quarters, bread, tomatoes, and peppers in a food processor. Process until consistency is chunky. Add cucumber, herbs, vinegar, and remaining olive oil. Process for 20 seconds. If too thick, thin with water. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Chill for at least 1 hour. Before serving, correct seasoning with salt and vinegar. Divide gazpacho among 8 bowls. Garnish with scallion greens. Serves 8.

BACON-WRAPPED PRUNES Preheat gas or charcoal grill to high. Soak sixteen wooden toothpicks in water to cover for 30 minutes.

4 strips bacon 16 pitted prunes Cut each strip of bacon into 4 pieces. Wrap each piece of bacon around a prune and secure with a toothpick. Grill until bacon is crisp, about 1 to 2 minutes per side. Remove prunes from grill. Remove toothpicks. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

GRILLED GARLIC BREAD FINGERS Preheat gas or charcoal grill to medium-high.

1 32- to 36-inch-long loaf of French bread 6 to 8 tablespoons salted butter 4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 1/4 cup minced fresh parsley Freshly ground black pepper Cut bread into 4 even pieces. Cut each piece lengthwise in half. Cut each half into 4 long strips. Set aside.

Heat butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add garlic, lemon zest, and parsley. Gently simmer until garlic starts to brown, about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove pan from heat. Add pepper to taste.

Generously brush the bread strips on all sides with the seasoned butter. Place bread crust-side-down on the grill. Turn and carefully grill until all surfaces are crusty and brown, about 1 to 2 minutes per side. Makes 32 pieces.

EMERIL LAGASSE’S NEW ORLEANS-STYLE SHRIMP Preheat gas or charcoal grill to high. If you want to add a wood smoke flavor, toss one or two cups presoaked pecan, hickory, or oak wood chips over the coals just before putting the shrimp on the grill. Soak six to eight 6-inch bamboo skewers in water to cover for 1 hour.

3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons Cajun rub seasoning, recipe follows 2 pounds shelled and deveined large shrimp, tail shell intact, and shells reserved 1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 tablespoons minced fresh garlic 3 bay leaves 2 lemons, peeled, seeded, and thinly sliced 2 cups bottled clam broth or shrimp stock 1/2 cup Worcestershire sauce 1/4 cup dry white wine 2 cups heavy cream 2 tablespoons unsalted butter Salt and freshly ground black pepper Mix 2 tablespoons olive oil and 1 1/2 tablespoons Cajun seasoning in a bowl. Add shrimp. Rub seasonings into shrimp with your hands. Cover bowl and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Heat remaining olive oil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add onion and garlic and cook until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Stir in reserved shrimp shells, remaining Cajun seasoning, bay leaves, lemon slices, clam broth, Worcestershire sauce, and wine. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer liquid until it is reduced to about 1 1/2 cups, about 20 to 30 minutes. Remove pan from heat. Strain sauce into a clean saucepan. Discard solids. Place pan over high heat. Boil sauce, stirring frequently, until thick, syrupy and dark brown, about 15 minutes. Sauce will be reduced to about 1/2 cup. Whisk in heavy cream and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring frequently, until sauce is reduced to 2 cups, about 5 to 10 minutes. Remove pan from heat. Whisk in butter. Add salt and pepper to taste. Sauce should be highly seasoned.

Remove shrimp from refrigerator. Drain. Thread shrimp on bamboo skewers. Place on grill. Baste with about half the sauce and grill about 2 minutes per side. Remove shrimp from grill. Place on a serving platter and spoon remaining sauce on top. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer or 4 as an entree.

CAJUN RUB SEASONING 3 tablespoons paprika 2 tablespoons salt 1 tablespoon garlic powder 1 tablespoon black pepper 1 tablespoon onion powder 1 tablespoon cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon dried oregano 1 tablespoon dried thyme Mix all the ingredients together in an airtight jar. Store seasoning away from heat and light. Makes about 3/4 cup.

BEEF AND BAY LEAF KEBABS Preheat gas or charcoal grill to high. If you want to add a wood smoke flavor, toss one or two cups presoaked mesquite, oak, or hickory wood chips onto the coals just before putting the kebabs on the grill.

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/4 red wine vinegar 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped 12 bay leaves 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 1/2 pounds beef tenderloin or sirloin, cut into 2-inch cubes Whisk together in a glass bowl oil, vinegar, onion, bay leaves, salt and freshly ground black pepper until salt is dissolved. Stir in beef Cover bowl and refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours. go to website charcoal grill

Remove beef from refrigerator. Drain beef and reserve marinade. Thread beef and bay leaves on 414-inch metal skewers. Baste with reserved marinade. Grill 2 to 3 minutes per side for medium-rare. Do not baste the last 3 minutes of grilling. Serves 4 to 6.

SHIITAKE MUSHROOM AND SCALLION KEBABS Preheat gas or charcoal grill to high. Soak eight 6-inch bamboo skewers in water to cover for 1 hour.

24 1 1/2-inch fresh shiitake mushroom caps, stemmed 32 1 1/2-inch-long white scallion pieces 3 tablespoons soy sauce 3 tablespoons sweet rice wine 1 tablespoon sugar 1 clove garlic, peeled, and minced Thread 3 mushroom caps and 4 scallion pieces widthwise on each bamboo skewer. Begin and end with a scallion piece. Set aside.

Whisk together soy sauce, rice wine, sugar, and garlic in a bowl until sugar is dissolved. Set aside.

Place kebabs on grill. Baste frequently with soy mixture. Grill until mushrooms and scallions are brown, about 2 to 4 minutes per side. Serve at once. Serves 8.

GRILLED FENNEL Preheat gas or charcoal grill to medium-high.

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/3 cup balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons honey 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 2 shallots, peeled and minced 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 4 small bulbs of fennel, about 1 1/2 to 2 pounds, trimmed, and cut lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick slices 3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon or basil Whisk together oil, vinegar, honey, garlic, shallots, salt and pepper in a large shallow bowl. Add fennel. Cover bowl and refrigerate for 2 hours. Stir frequently.

Remove bowl from refrigerator. Drain fennel, reserving marinade. Place fennel on grill. Grill fennel until tender, about 4 to 8 minutes per side. Remove fennel to a platter. Spoon reserved marinade on top. Cool and sprinkle with tarragon. Serves 6 to 8.

AUSSIE WINGS Preheat gas or charcoal grill to medium high.

1/4 cup peanut oil 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice 1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce 1/4 cup beer, preferably Australian 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 12 whole chicken wings, about 2 1/2 to 3 pounds Barbecue sauce, recipe follows Whisk together oil, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, beer, salt and pepper in a bowl. Set aside.

Wash chicken wings and blot dry with paper towels. Slash wings 2 or 3 times with a knife in the meaty part. Place wings in a large glass bowl. Pour marinade over wings. Cover bowl and refrigerate for 4 hours.

Remove bowl from refrigerator. Discard marinade. Place wings on the grill. Pull them open to expose as much skin as possible. Grill until cooked through, about 6 to 8 minutes per side. Brush wings with barbecue sauce the last 5 minutes of cooking. Place wings on a platter. Brush again with sauce. Serve with remaining sauce. Serves 4 to 6.

BARBECUE SAUCE 2 tablespoons peanut oil 1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced 2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 cup ketchup 4 tablespoons beer 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 2 tablespoons wine vinegar 1 tablespoon dark brown sugar 1 tablespoon honey 2 teaspoons soy sauce 1 teaspoon dry mustard 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Heat oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, ginger, and red pepper flakes. Cook until onion and garlic are lightly browned, about 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in remaining ingredients. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until sauce is thick, about 10 to 15 minutes. Makes about 1 cup.

GRILLED SALADE NICOISE Preheat gas or charcoal gull to high.

For salad:

4 6-ounce fresh tuna steaks, 3/4-inch thick 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice Coarse salt Freshly cracked black peppercorns 1 pound small red potatoes, scrubbed and cut in half 3/4 pound haricots verts or green beans, ends removed 1 large red onion, peeled, root end intact, cut into 12 wedges Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For dressing:

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 to 2 anchovy fillets, rinsed, blotted dry, and finely chopped, optional 1 tablespoon capers, drained 12 basil leaves, thinly slivered

For serving:

Grilled tuna Grilled vegetables (root ends cut off onions) 2 large ripe tomatoes, cut into wedges 2 hard cooked eggs, cut into wedges 1/3 cup Nicoise olives, rinsed and drained 4 cups mesclun salad greens Dressing 6 sprigs fresh basil Prepare salad: Place tuna in a shallow glass dish. Mix 2 tablespoons olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste in a bowl. Pour mixture over tuna and turn to coat evenly. Cover dish and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Place potatoes in a pan with lightly salted cold water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until tender. Drain. Refresh under cold water. Drain. Set aside.

Toss potatoes, haricots verts, and onions with the remaining olive oil in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Grill vegetables until lightly charred on the outside, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer vegetables to a platter. Cool.

Remove tuna from refrigerator. Discard marinade. Grill tuna until cooked to taste, 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium-rare. Recipe can be prepared ahead to this stage.

Prepare dressing: Whisk mustard, vinegar, salt and pepper to taste and garlic in a mixing bowl until salt is dissolved. Slowly whisk in oil. Add anchovies, capers, and basil leaves. Add salt or vinegar to taste. Dressing should be highly seasoned. Set aside.

Arrange tuna, grilled vegetables, tomato wedges, egg wedges, olives, and mesclun on a large platter. Drizzle with dressing. Garnish with basil sprigs. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

GRILLED PINEAPPLE Preheat gas or charcoal grill to high. If you want to add a light fruitwood flavor, toss one or two cups presoaked apple or cherry wood chips onto the coals just before putting the pineapple on the grill. Oil grill with vegetable oil.

1/2 cup melted unsalted butter 3/4 cup turbinado sugar (sugar from natural cane) 1 teaspoon grated lime zest 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves 1 ripe golden Dole pineapple with leaves, rind removed, cut in half lengthwise through leaves, cut halves into 8 wedges with leaves intact, and trim eve off each wedge 6 cups coconut ice cream Pour butter into a bowl. Set aside. Mix sugar, lime zest, cinnamon, and cloves in a bowl. Set aside.

Dip pineapple wedges in butter. Dust wedges with sugar mixture. Shake off any excess sugar. Place on grill and cook until browned and sizzling. Serve immediately with ice cream. Serves 8.

Ellis, Jane